Wednesday, May 20, 2015

May 20 – “Day Three: Vicksburg to Tupelo(???)”

After that great breakfast we started this leg of the journey at the logical place – a tourist welcome center.  The lady there walked us through a map of the area and highlighted some key stuff for us to see as we trekked around town.  First stop, of course, was the Vicksburg Battlefield National Park, which was, coincidentally, right across the street. 

The tourist info center for the park was quite well done.  A twenty minute video about the battle gave us an overview that I sure needed, since I didn’t brush up on my Civil War history before we left Galveston.  There were also lots and lots of souvenirs.  Oh, and we met a new friend there.  His name was Douglas Dromedary.  THE Douglas Dromedary.  Very friendly guy.  And the consummate Confederate, I might add.  Seems he had been the actual camel who was known to have walked with the rebels throughout the battle, giving them encouragement and moral support.  Camels live a long time.  Yes, I said camel.  Watch out, now.  Don’t look down on him just because he’s a different species.  And don’t believe everything you hear, either.  Reports of his demise during the battle were greatly exaggerated.  He managed to smuggle himself through the Union lines and onto a heavily armed gunboat on the Mississippi River.  It was a Yankee gunboat, but Douglas was such a smooth talker, no one thought twice about welcoming him aboard.  He did his best throughout the rest of the war to secret information to the South command, but sadly it was to no avail.  He has been stuck at this Yankee-commandeered visitors’ center for years.  He convinced us to let him lead our self-guided tour of the grounds.  How could I turn him down?  He proved to be an invaluable resource.  See, I was not allowed to climb on or in the cannons.  Having been an original participant of the battle, he was exempt from such silly rules and regulations.  We have some wonderful pictures.  And after the tour he asked if he could come home with us.  He’s never been to Galveston.  Never been allowed outside that barricaded visitors’ center.  We now have a new member of the family. 

The park itself was a lot like Gettysburg … big.  But instead of lots and lots of grass, this one had trees.  Lots of trees.  And hills.  Actually the terrain was beautiful.  And there were plenty of the obelisks honoring the different regiments involved in the battle.  We found the Texas one.  Actually, Douglas did.  Huge thing.  Had to go up eleven steps to reach the actual monument – one for every state that seceded from the Union.  Impressive.  Some of the monuments had people’s names on them, too.  My favorite name of the trip so far?  Andrew Hickenlooper.  Douglas didn’t know him.  He was a Yankee. 

The absolute highlight of the park was the restoration project of the USS Cairo.  It was one of the seven ironclad ships patrolling the Mississippi during the war.  It was sunk and finally salvaged in the 1960’s.  They have put back together the wood and iron they have salvaged, and filled in some structural gaps like a big, life-sized jigsaw puzzle.  Quite a feat.  And quite impressive.  And across the street from the ship was the national cemetery for all the Union soldiers killed.  Also similar to the one at Gettysburg.  The Rebs were all buried in town. 

Speaking of in town, that’s where we headed next.  Old buildings and some cobbled streets.  Confederate General Pemberton’s headquarters was a huge house.  One of many in the town.  We saw the National Biscuit Company.  First corporation to use the moniker, NBC.  They have a sea wall next to the river.  They call it a levee, though.  Somebody painted on theirs, too.  We went into a museum in town hoping to see the battle from the Rebel perspective.  It was hard to remember that the National Park was, after all, a national park.  This museum had a diorama of the battlefield that would have been perfect had we seen it before our tour or the park.  It was awesome.  Tiny little blue and gray clad soldiers everywhere.  But I guess the guy who built it was more amenable to the losing cause.  Had to keep it on the Rebel side.

Perhaps the most horrifying experience of my life came when we entered the Antique Doll Museum.  It was everything you might have imagined and more.  The place was small.  Hot.  Cramped.  Very old dolls lined the walls from floor to ceiling.  Dolls in cribs.  Dolls staring at you from above.  Dolls standing up.  Dolls sitting down.  Boy dolls.  Girl dolls.  Wedding dress clad dolls.  Chatty Cathy dolls.  Every Barbie and Ken and Midge doll ever made.  Even a My Buddy was trapped in there.  And the worst part of it all?  The hundred year old man who operated the place was crafty.  He added a second line to the sign indicating that he also had boys’ toys.  Sneaky.  He even admitted to us that it was his way of tricking the men into coming into the room and not waiting outside.  That’s just … evil.  Chris asked how he got started collecting.  His answer?  “I collected the collector.”  Now that’s rather frightening. 

Before leaving town we made a quick run over to the cemetery where the Confederate soldiers were buried.  Very impressive.  It did seem kind of strange that they were flying two Confederate flags over the area and no American flag.  We were truly ensconced in Rebel territory.  We found the Texas guys.  One of them was named Hamelton.  Chris wasn’t sure if he was a relative or not.

From there we stopped by the state welcome center.  We had heard that it was the prime spot for taking a picture of the Mississippi River and two different bridges that span it.  Something literary about a guy named Flat Stanley?  So we took pictures of the Mississippi River.  Then we left town.

It took us a while but we finally relocated the Natchez Trace Parkway.  Problem was we need some food first (we just had crackers and water for lunch.  No, as far as we know neither of us is pregnant.  Just focused in seeing the sights).  We finally found a McAlister’s Deli.  Had to drive right through the middle of the Mississippi College campus.  We finally got on the Parkway, though.  We took some pictures of a reservoir (gotta love large bodies of water, right?).  Then we took a through a swamp.  Literally.  We had to walk on a bridge they had made.  Also had to watch out for alligators.  That’s where I learned about the word “tupelo.”  Tupelo is a tree.  And a city.  And a football game we used to play … what?  Oh.  That was “Two below.”  Sorry about that.

We finally left the parkway.  The 50 mph speed limit was just too slow for Chris.  Besides it would have taken us forever to get to a city with some hotels.  We cut through the hometown of Mississippi State University.  Any more college visits?  We only made it as far as Tupelo, Mississippi.  The city, not the tree.  Too tired to complete the journey to Corinth.  But we did hear that someone famous was born here.  Guess we’ll try to find out who.

Hotel rating: Quality Inn.  About 3 starfish.  Nice but not outstanding.  AC was on and the room was nice and cold.  And there was a hot breakfast … waffles.

Psalms 27:14 says, Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord.”


Father, thank you for tupelos and pines and whatever other foliage we passed on our way here.  Beautiful stuff.  You do good work.  Amen.

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